9 Days
The Cape Verde Islands
lie 375 miles off the coast of west Africa and are all volcanic in
origin. The islands display a wonderful variety of landscapes and
scenery from the spectacular rugged mountains of Santiago, Santo Antao
and São Nicolau to the flat salt pans of Sal and Maio. The Cape Verde
Islands were ‘discovered’ by the Portuguese between 1455 and 1461.
Because of their strategic position in the Atlantic, on the crossroads
of all major sailing routes to North America, South America and Asia,
the islands quickly became an important port for shipping supplies, and
stop-over for the international trade of gold, ivory and slaves. An
interesting account of the history of the Cape Verde can be found in the
museum in central Praia. The isolation of the Cape Verde islands has
resulted in a number of endemic species, particularly of birds including
Cape Verde Swift, Raso Lark, Cape Verde Warbler and Cape Verde Sparrow.
Another point of interest for naturalists is that on 16th January 1832,
Charles Darwin landed on Santiago (recorded as St. Jago in his diary)
and noted a layer of white shells in a cliff face at Porto Praya. An
observation which later led to one his less well known theories of
‘raising continents’ and ‘sinking ocean floors’!
Please
note that the following itinerary should be treated as a guide only,
not an exact program. Flexibility is the key to all our cruises and our
exact route and program will depend on such factors as weather
conditions, wildlife encounters, the experience of the expedition leader
and the advice of the ship's captain and crew.
Day 1 (May 2)
Passengers
arrive in Praia, the capital of the Cape Verde Islands, with a flight
from Lisboa and stay in a hotel (not included in the ships arrangement)
Day 2 (May 3)
At
13.00 hours we transfer to the MV Plancius for embarkation and lunch,
our home for the next 7 nights. Praia is located on the southern island
of Santiago, one of the largest of the 10 islands (plus 8 islets) that
make up the Cape Verde archipelago. From Praia we cruise north, across
the ‘Ilhas do Sotavento’, towards the small islands of Raso and Branco,
approximately 120 miles from Santiago, a journey that will take the rest
of the day and much of the night. We will, however, be crossing prime
seabird and cetacean waters and there will be plenty to enjoy en route,
especially in the evening when the shearwaters and other seabirds begin
to return to the islands after a day feeding out at sea. With the
volcanic cone of Fogo off to our port side and flying fish scuttling
over the waters surface in front of our ship, we will be looking out for
the Cape Verde Shearwater - an endemic race of Cory’s Shearwater-plus
North Atlantic Little (Boyd’s) Shearwater, Fea’s Petrel and Bulwer’s
Shearwater. These waters are also home to an exciting variety of
cetaceans including Short-finned Pilot Whale, Bottlenose Dolphin, Common
Dolphin and perhaps Pan-tropical Spotted Dolphin and Sperm Whale.
Day 3
We
will spend this morning circumnavigating the small rugged islands of
Raso and Branco, located in the north-west of the archipelago between
the larger islands of São Nicolau and São Vicente. Cape Verde
Shearwaters are common here and nest in large numbers on the islands
along with Little (Boyd’s) Shearwater and both Madeira and White-faced
Storm Petrels. Our main target this morning, however, will be the
beautiful and graceful Red-billed Tropicbird which also nest on Raso and
can be seen here and gliding along the precipitous slopes of
Branco. Brown Boobies are another key species frequently seen around the islands, although locating one of the
endemic
Raso Larks from the ship may prove somewhat trickier! Throughout our
voyage we must also keep our eyes open for cetaceans.
Early in the
afternoon we must head east, away from the Cape Verde Islands and
towards the continental shelf off West Africa. Sadly, sailing times do
not permit us to pass by the island of Boavista, home to the Western
Palaearctic's only Magnificent Frigate birds, but these birds forage
widely and are far ranging in their travels. Although only one or two
pairs remain – in the entire east Atlantic population - they are seen
occasionally between the islands and, if fortune favors our group, this
afternoon we may get lucky! There will, however be plenty of commoner
seabirds to enjoy, plus more opportunities to look for dolphins, pilot
whales and perhaps some of the larger cetacean species.
Day 4
At
sea. Today will be spent mostly over deep water cruising from the Cape
Verde Islands to the West African shelf edge off Mauritania. Seabirds
and cetaceans will be the order of the day and we hope for an
interesting selection of seabirds as we head east.
Days 5 - 7
We
will spend the following 3 days cruising north along the shelf edge off
Mauritania and Western Sahara. Here we should expect the unexpected,
for these rich waters are rarely visited by naturalists and their
wildlife has been poorly documented. We hope that by ‘chumming’ (a
potent mix of fish scraps and oil) at key points along our route we will
enjoy close views of plenty of the commoner species plus, we hope, a
few surprises! All four species of Northern Skua - Great, Arctic,
Long-tailed and Pomarine - should be common with the latter especially
numerous along the Mauritanian shelf edge. Groups of Grey Phalaropes are
also a common sight here, along with flocks of Sabine’s Gulls, European
Storm-petrel, Kittiwakes and Black Terns.
These northern breeders
are joined from the south by numerous Wilson’s Storm-petrels, plus Sooty
Shearwater and - for the fortunate - perhaps even South Polar Skua; a
species recently shown to head north into these waters during our spring
and summer months. Any of the rarer seabirds breeding on the
Macronesian Islands are possible, along with an exciting range of
cetaceans which may include Fin Whale, Sperm Whale, Northern Bottlenose
Whale, Curvier’s beaked Whale, Common Dolphin and the outside chance of
rarer species such as Rough-toothed Dolphin, Blainville’s Beaked Whale
and Pygmy Sperm Whale. Other pelagic wildlife to look out for includes
Sunfish and even the occasional turtle.
Day 8
We
next cruise through the Canary Islands looking out for Bulwer’s Petrel,
Little (Barolo’s) Shearwater and Cory’s Shearwater, plus more
cetaceans, before spending an evening cruising around the remote
Selvagens. These isolated islands, which lie 80 miles north of the
Canaries, are perhaps the ultimate destination for anyone interested in
Western Palaearctic ‘tube-noses’. Huge numbers of petrels and
shearwaters breed here including approximately 15,000 Cory’s
Shearwaters, 5,000 Bulwer’s Petrels, 2,000 Little (Barolo’s) Shearwater,
60,000 White-faced Storm-petrels and 1,500 pairs of Madeira
Storm-petrels. Since many of these species gather off shore in the
evening before returning to their nest sites after dark, our evening
cruise here should be one of the ornithological highlights of this
holiday. If conditions permit we will launch the zodiacs for an evening
zodiac cruise to enjoy the seabirds and cetaceans at close range.
Day 9
We
end our voyage with an early morning cruise around the Desertas
Islands. The Desertas belong to the Madeira archipelago and are located
21 nautical miles from Funchal harbor. In 1990 they became a Nature
Reserve, comprising the islands themselves and the surrounding sea to a
depth of 100 metres. The reserve is divided into two protected zones of
which the southern half of Deserta Grande and Bugio are strictly
forbidden to visitors even by boat. On Deserta Grande there is a
permanent research station with three wardens, who are the only human
inhabitants on the islands today.
The Desertas were designated as an
SPA (Special Protection Area) for their internationally important
seabird populations. Cory’s Shearwater, Bulwer’s Petrel and Madeira
Storm Petrel all breed here along with Fea’s and the endemic Zino’s
Petrel. Splitting the two latter species at sea will test our ID skills
to the limit but both are possible in these waters, along with an
exciting selection of cetaceans including Common Dolphin, Bottle-nosed
Dolphin, Short-finned Pilot Whale and perhaps a Fin or early Bryde’s
Whale. Sperm Whales are the mostly frequently seen large whales in
these waters and spend most of the year here feeding on squid from the
deep water canyons and trenches that surround the islands. A small
population of around 23 Mediterranean Monk Seals also live around the
Desertas, although it would take a degree of luck to find one of these
critically endangered mammals.
Finally, we arrive in Funchal,
the capital of Madeira, where you will disembark the MV Plancius and
transfer on your own to the airport to catch an early afternoon flight
home (flight not included in cruise rate). Following a change of
aircraft in Lisbon you should be due to arrive back into London at
around 21.30 hours.





